We are replacing an old fridge that has been running for twelve years, and we find ourselves in the store in front of a row of colorful labels, and the question arises: which letter to aim for without blowing the budget? Since the European overhaul in March 2021, the old A+++ scale has disappeared. The label now ranges from A to G, and the usual benchmarks no longer apply. Understanding what each letter hides allows for a cost-effective choice over time.
Energy Efficiency Index: the figure no one looks at in-store
The letter on the label summarizes a more precise calculation: the Energy Efficiency Index (EEI). This ratio compares the measured annual consumption of the fridge to a reference consumption calculated based on its volume and type. A model rated A has an EEI of less than 41, while a device rated D ranges from 64 to 77, an E from 77 to 91, an F from 91 to 106, and a G beyond 107.
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The concrete interest of this figure: two fridges of different sizes can carry the same letter without consuming the same. A large volume combined fridge rated C will consume more in gross kWh than a small tabletop refrigerator rated D, even though its EEI is better. When hesitating between two models of similar volumes, comparing their EEI (indicated on the product sheet) provides a more reliable answer than just the letter alone.
To choose the energy class of your fridge wisely, it’s beneficial to cross-reference the letter with the annual consumption in kWh indicated on the label, then relate this figure to the actual usable volume.
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Class A unavailable on the shelf: where to find the right compromise in 2025
An old A+++ is now found in B, sometimes in C. In stores, fridges rated A remain very rare and confined to the high-end. We mostly encounter C, D, or E, and we must accept that these letters no longer mean “bad student” as they did before 2021.
The practical reflex: aiming for a class C or B offers the best balance between the extra cost at purchase and the savings on the electricity bill. A model rated E or F costs significantly less on the shelf, but the difference in annual consumption quickly accumulates over the lifespan of a refrigerator (often ten to fifteen years).
Example of reasoning on total cost
We take two combined models of equivalent volume. The first, rated C, consumes significantly fewer kWh per year than the second, rated E. Multiplied by the price of kWh and by about ten years of use, the gap on the bill usually exceeds the initial extra cost of the better-rated model. The purchase price alone says nothing about the actual cost of a fridge.
Feedback varies on this point depending on the electricity rate applied (regulated rate, market offer, off-peak hours), but the trend remains the same: the higher the price of kWh, the quicker a good energy rating pays off.
Settings and installation: what affects actual consumption
Buying a well-rated fridge is not enough if the installation sabotages its performance. We regularly see new appliances consuming more than expected due to simple details that can be corrected.
- The space behind the fridge matters: leaving at least a few centimeters between the wall and the condenser (the back grille) allows heat to escape. A fridge pressed against the wall or built-in without ventilation forces the compressor to run longer.
- The ambient temperature of the room directly influences the operating cycle. A fridge placed next to an oven or in direct sunlight consumes more, regardless of its class.
- The internal thermostat setting deserves attention: setting it too cold by a few degrees significantly increases consumption without real benefits for food preservation. The recommended zone is generally around 4 °C for the main compartment.
- The condition of the door seals is often overlooked. A worn or detached seal continuously lets in warm air, causing the compressor to work constantly.
These installation and maintenance parameters can create a notable gap between the theoretical consumption displayed on the label and the actual consumption measured at the meter.
Usable volume and type of cooling: two criteria that weigh as much as the letter
We tend to focus on the energy class while forgetting that the volume of the fridge determines a large part of the consumption. A double-door American refrigerator rated C will consume much more than a standard combined model rated D, simply because its volume is twice as large.
Adapting the volume to the actual size of the household avoids cooling empty space. For one or two people, a compact combined fridge is more than sufficient. Beyond four people, a large volume is justified, but we then check that the energy class compensates for the size.
Ventilated cooling or static cooling
Ventilated cooling (no frost) distributes temperature evenly and eliminates frost. In return, the built-in fan adds its own consumption. Static cooling consumes a bit less in use but requires regular defrosting of the freezer compartment. A frosted freezer can see its consumption rise sharply if not defrosted in time.
The choice between these two technologies depends on actual usage. If the fridge is opened infrequently and defrosting is done rigorously, static cooling remains economical. If the fridge is frequently used (large family, frequent openings), ventilated cooling maintains energy performance better over time.
When replacing a refrigerator, cross-referencing the energy class with the actual necessary volume, the type of cooling, and the installation conditions provides a much clearer picture than just the letter on the label. It is this combination of criteria, not just one of them, that determines what the fridge will actually cost each year on the electricity bill.