A drum that squeaks, that no longer turns, or that bangs against the tub at the slightest spin: we all know that moment when the washing machine signals a mechanical problem. Before picking up the phone to call a repairman, several checks and interventions are within anyone’s reach, as long as you proceed in the right order and know when to stop.
Drum drive belt: the most common and easiest fault to fix
When the motor runs but the drum remains stationary, the belt is the first component to inspect. On most front-loading washing machines, it connects the motor pulley to the drum pulley at the back of the machine. Over time, it can loosen, come off, or crack.
To access it, unplug the machine, move it to reach the back panel, and then remove the screws holding it in place. A simply dislodged belt can be replaced in a few minutes: first, position it on the small motor pulley, then tension it by manually turning the large drum pulley until it wraps correctly.
If the belt shows cracks or significant wear, putting it back in place will only delay the failure by a few weeks. Replace it with an identical model in reference (width, number of grooves, length). Before ordering, just read the marking printed on the belt itself.
When looking to fix a washing machine drum, replacing the belt remains the most cost-effective intervention: the part is inexpensive and the operation requires no specialized tools, just a Phillips screwdriver.
Worn motor brushes: when the drum turns intermittently
The drum starts, hesitates, then stops mid-cycle. Or it turns in one direction but refuses the other. This behavior often points to the motor brushes, two small graphite pieces that ensure electrical contact with the rotor.
They are located on each side of the motor. After unplugging the machine and removing the back panel (sometimes the bottom panel depending on the model), disconnect the motor wires, unclip it, and extract the brushes from their housing. Their remaining length indicates everything: if the graphite is reduced to less than a centimeter, the contact becomes random and the motor loses its driving power.
Always replace both brushes at the same time, even if only one seems worn. Asymmetrical wear would create an electrical imbalance at the collector. During reinstallation, check that the springs of the brushes exert constant pressure, then reattach the motor and its connectors.
Breaking in after replacing the brushes
New brushes have a flat surface while the collector is slightly curved. The first cycles may generate a slight rubbing noise or visible sparks through the motor openings. Run two or three empty short cycles to allow the graphite to conform to the shape of the collector. This breaking in prevents premature wear.
Dampers and suspension springs: stop excessive vibrations
A drum that violently bangs against the tub during spinning does not necessarily indicate a problem with the drum itself. The dampers absorb the oscillations of the tub-drum assembly. When they fail, the tub bounces uncontrollably and the noise becomes unbearable.
To test the dampers, open the door, press firmly on the drum, then release. If the drum returns to position and oscillates more than twice, the dampers are no longer functioning. They are found fixed between the tub and the chassis, accessible from underneath or through the front panel of the machine.
- Also check the suspension springs at the top of the tub: a broken or dislodged spring causes a visible sagging of the drum on one side
- Inspect the concrete counterweights fixed to the tub, as a loose or cracked counterweight produces the same vibration symptoms as worn dampers
- Check the silent blocks under the motor, which disintegrate over the years and add unwanted vibrations to normal operation
Replacing a damper generally takes less than half an hour. Remove the pins or fixing screws, unclip the old one, and clip in the new one. Feedback varies on this point, but on some models, accessing the front dampers requires removing the entire front panel, which takes a bit more patience.
Drum bearings: sound diagnosis and replacement threshold
A dull rumble that intensifies during spinning, a rust stain under the tub, a noticeable play when lifting the drum by hand: these signs converge towards bearing wear. This part supports the rotation of the drum on its axis, and its degradation is progressive.
The test is simple: turn the drum by hand, with the machine off and empty. A healthy drum turns freely with regular and silent friction. Jerkiness, a metallic squeak, or a hard spot confirm the diagnosis.
Replacing the bearings is the heaviest intervention on a washing machine. The entire tub must be extracted, separated into two half-shells (when it is removable), and then the old bearings must be driven out with a mallet and extractor to install the new ones. On sealed tubs, the manufacturer considers the entire unit non-repairable, but some independent repairers cut the tub and re-glue it after the intervention.
European directive on the right to repair
The European directive on the right to repair explicitly targets drum washing machines. The manufacturer is now obliged to offer a repair at a reasonable price and within a reasonable timeframe, even after the end of the legal warranty.
The manufacturer can no longer refuse to repair on the grounds that a private individual or an independent repairer has already intervened on the device. Moreover, a warranty repair results in a 12-month extension of the legal warranty, compared to 6 months previously.
In practical terms, if replacing the bearings exceeds your skills, this directive gives you leverage to demand that the manufacturer cover the cost at a regulated rate. Manufacturers must also maintain the availability of spare parts for several years after the product is launched.
Before ordering parts or disassembling anything, noting the exact model reference (label on the edge of the door or on the back of the chassis) remains the most useful gesture. A wrong reference for a bearing or brush turns a one-hour repair into a round trip of several days with the supplier.